"Jiko: "Surfer, wave, same thing.""That's just stupid, " I said. " A surfer's a person. A wave is a wave. How can they be the same?"Jiko looked out acr...
Maketa,” I said, throwing myself down in the sand. “I lost. The ocean won.”She smiled. “Was it a good feeling?”“Mm,” I said.“That’s good,” she said. “Have another rice ball?
Photo by Ákos Szabó
Photo by Ian Turnell
Maketa,” I said, throwing myself down in the sand. “I lost. The ocean won.”She smiled. “Was it a goo...
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